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[quote="BigAl"]The car does not get up to temp atfer 20 mins now, where before it took 5 mins. After 30 mins on the motorway at 3k "60mph" the temp was at 70c, after revving to red line a couple of times the temp then sat at 80c. I am now beginning to think that the new thermostat "who knows how long it has been sitting on the shelf" is to blame. I got the new thermostat Thu Mar 26, 2009, from CAF I think, I fitted it on Sat Mar 28, 2009. As per my post in this thread http://www.alfa-pages.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=5986&highlight=thermostat you can see that I had problems with if straight from the bat. What do you think.[/quote]
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Topic review
Author
Message
BigAl
Posted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 2:43 pm
Post subject:
I think I have found and possibly fixed the propblem.
When I had the plenum chamber off, I removed the connector for the dash sender, spuashed the female spade together and put it back on. Yesterday on my way to work, the temp gauge showed 80 in no time and on the motorway sat between 80 - 90.
I found my DMM but forgot to take it with me.... doh! to confirm the temp from the CTS.
BigAl
Posted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 9:03 pm
Post subject:
Hi Iain, I sold my white dials and console and I am using the correct ser 3 console, which I hate, too dark, when I changed it, the gauge read the same. I know what you mean though and when fitting the white dials I was very careful not to touch the needle.
Oggie
Posted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 8:58 pm
Post subject:
I bet you knocked the needle out of line when you applied you white dials Al?, I never trust the readings on the dash just use them as a guide.
BigAl
Posted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 8:38 pm
Post subject:
I don’t know what to think, the rad fan came on, which is at 90c I think and my gauge read 75c, I think I need to investigate further? I could get a DMM on the CTS to confirm the temp.
Guest
Posted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 7:49 pm
Post subject:
Could be a faulty(jammed) thermostat. It happens.
BigAl
Posted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 11:54 pm
Post subject:
Well now i am thinking that the sender for the console is to blame.
I got the same as above today but i didnt red line it and it still sat at 70c, after my 30 min motorway drive i left the engine running and waited for the rad fan to cut in. I checked the gauge and it said 75.
What do you think now.
Am i right in thinking there are 3 things relating to temperature on the engine.
1 CTS
2 console red light
3 console gauge
BigAl
Posted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 6:15 pm
Post subject:
The car does not get up to temp atfer 20 mins now, where before it took 5 mins.
After 30 mins on the motorway at 3k "60mph" the temp was at 70c, after revving to red line a couple of times the temp then sat at 80c.
I am now beginning to think that the new thermostat "who knows how long it has been sitting on the shelf" is to blame.
I got the new thermostat Thu Mar 26, 2009, from CAF I think, I fitted it on Sat Mar 28, 2009. As per my post in this thread
http://www.alfa-pages.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=5986&highlight=thermostat
you can see that I had problems with if straight from the bat.
What do you think.
JeremyC
Posted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:45 pm
Post subject:
Is your rad a truly known quantity.
Rads can look fine but be silted to hell.
knighty2
Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 2:07 pm
Post subject:
thanks RBL and Jeremy.........great information.......RBL - whats the height and width of your spiders front air intake?
The trouble with my front end is there is literally no room for a radiator, but it looks like I may have to approach it from a different angle.........I could perhaps do it with two front mounted heater matrix cores.........I was also trying to avoid the long heavy pipe runs.........but hey ho - my current system is actually not that bad, I'm just being a bit of a tart and cautious like.
JeremyC
Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 1:13 pm
Post subject:
With a recent new 'stat mine is rocky steady in the middle and cruising at motorway speeds it occasionally drops down a tiny bit then rises again.
RBL
Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 11:50 am
Post subject:
Knighty. You're probably not getting the extra airflow that you should normally get at higher speeds needed to cool the extra engine temps. The coolant temp shouldn't increase that much.
I have the same engine in my Spyder with a front mounted 33 radiator, and I don't have any problems even with the rad mounted at 45degrees, a small air intake grill and mid-mounted engine. Can't you mount the rad towards the front or in the airflow? (you wouldn't need the fans on then - my fan only comes on a hot day in traffic)
knighty2
Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 10:20 am
Post subject:
very funny - ha ha
......just because the heater fan is not on, does not imply its not rejecting heat, the heater matrix will still cool the block water to a certain extent........any other thoughts on this?
..
Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 9:12 am
Post subject: heater matrix
i always have the heaters full on in summer
... and the windows down of course...
knighty2
Posted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 8:10 pm
Post subject:
reading through this and other threads, am I right in thinking that the alfa boxers run about 5-10 degreesC hotter when on a summer motorway run?
I have just replaced the thermostat on my 1989 1.7 8v with carbs, and sure enough the old one was stuck open, so previously it ran cool, then flew off the scale and over heated on a summer motorway run........now it fluctuates between about 88-92 around town and country lanes........ then on a summer motorway run it gets about 5-10 degrees hotter........is this normal?????
as a point of note, my engine is rear mounted in a beach buggy, I run a Mk1 golf GTi rad, with two 9" ducted fans permanently on, due to packaging the rad is not forward facing (side mounted).......and I dont run the heater matrix......I am considering rigging a heater matrix core back in, for engine cooling only, as I'm quite sure this helps the cooling circuit in the block side.........does anyone think this will help????
thoughts please!!!
BigAl
Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 7:29 pm
Post subject:
I just fitted the ser 3 consol and the temp gauge reads the same btw.
BigAl
Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 6:24 pm
Post subject:
Could that be the same for bobbbers???
JeremyC
Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 5:23 pm
Post subject:
Coolant no but a different 'stat may well run at a slightly different temperature.
BigAl
Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 1:11 am
Post subject:
I just had a thought, would a different thermostat and differing coolant type and strength of mixture make any difference, as this started when I fitted new thermostat and coolant.
I havent had a chance to investigate any further, mot is due.
BigAl
Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 6:32 pm
Post subject:
Thanks for the suggestions so far guys.
yer bobbber I have fitted a new fuel filter not to long ago.
When stationary the fan cuts in and out and the car doesnt overheat.
Nothing has been changed to make the temp gauge read higher pointing to that item, although when the coolant and thermostat was done the gauge did start to read between 80 - 90, I just thought, as I said to bobber in his post, that maybe the temp is where it should be or that the temp gauge is reading correctly.
I forgot to mention in the above post that there was pressure in the system, so the system does get to pressure and to add..
I did a journey until the dash gauge red 80c, I pulled over and the system was not up to pressure, squeezing both large rad pipes were soft, the N/S pipe was warm, but the top O/S pipe was cool. AS per usual I don’t take over 3k, I forgot my DMM, DOH!
I would have thought if the thermostat was closed then yes the O/S pipe would be cool, but why is the N/S one warm? Is it due to water going round the closed thermostat loop of the heater matrix and header tank, warming up the water in the N/S pipe?
Is it possible that the CTS gauge sender can fail giving erroneous higher readings?
JeremyC
Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 2:25 pm
Post subject:
My Saab 900 started overheating, it would boil if I was stationary for more than 30 seconds. The rad had the tiniest of leaks.
Replaced the rad, problem went away. I think rads are a bit like exhausts, they can look fine from the outside whilst inside they are completely shagged.
BigAl
Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 1:34 pm
Post subject:
It has only just started to do it, however I think my fuelling might be lean.
When I checked my emissions I adjusted the mixture with the aid of the idle mixture screw so that the car would pass on idle and fast idle, which it did/does using the correct fuel selector. However when I connected up the lambda sensor it shot up to .45 as the car has from the start of me owning it. I thought that is was a dodgy lambda sensor and got a replacement but haven’t fitted it until i can get a reading of what its correcting the emissions to by reading emissions before the cat. Now I'm leaning towards the cat being duff and maybe the lambda sensor being correct, but I haven’t been able to prove it.
I have been running without lambda correction before this temp thing started.
What you think?.....
bobbber
Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 1:23 pm
Post subject:
Ok, what about lean mixture? Fuel filter replaced recently and good fuel pump pressure?
BigAl
Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 1:16 pm
Post subject:
Thanks for you replies guys,
In answer to your suggestions
Quote:
Thermostat stuck a bit closed (or some crud in there)
Dirty radiator
The coolant system was flushed not long ago and replaced with 50/50 parraflu and was clean to start with and I can’t see anything in the header tank.
Quote:
Unpressurised system
Possible, I loose the contents of the header tank about every 2-3 months, after fitting new thermostat and coolant, I noticed the rad had a very small leak, there is pressure if cap is loosened when hot.
Quote:
Out of phase ignition
Scan tools showed ignition advance to be ok and rotor arm is incorrect position.
Quote:
Low oil level
Possible, I have a leak around the cam shaft oil seals and top up regularly, seals didn't go in correctly when I did my head, cannot be arsed to do again.
Quote:
Duff water pump
No noises coming from it... can see fluid moving in header tank
Quote:
Low coolant level
Regularly checked
Quote:
Something inhibiting normal workload (i.e. stuck brake/handbrake or similar)
I still get 34 MPG, would anything like that affect it, just rotated my tyres and didn’t notice anything.
bobbber
Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 10:39 am
Post subject:
I agree with Jeremy... but I wonder what's *actually* going wrong here?
http://www.alfa-restoration.co.uk/jetronic/tempsender.html
0.22 kOhms is 220 Ohms which is about 90 degrees?! For reference the fan should cut in at about 90-94 degrees and then switch off at 85-89 degrees. So I'd say, based upon that evidence that it's running at about 90.
I think it's unlikely that both the rad and coolant sensors are wrong (after all, the one on the rad is actually VERY simple).
So :
Thermostat stuck a bit closed (or some crud in there)
Dirty radiator
Unpressurised system
Out of phase ignition
Low oil level
Duff water pump
Low coolant level
Something inhibiting normal workload (i.e. stuck brake/handbrake or similar)
Now I'm no expert at this lot (and haven't managed to sort mine out either) - but that's the basics. Mine was really bad, but got a better after I fitted a new pressure cap on the expansion tank (which looked fine apart from being able to blow through it!!!!).
Let me know about that little lot (should keep you busy for a while).
B
JeremyC
Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 8:51 am
Post subject:
If the fan is cutting in then surely that's two independant sensors saying the temperature is high and therefore it's likely to be an actual temperature problem rather than a sensor problem.