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[quote="BigAl"]Hey guys, I can’t figure this out and have tried a few things, maybe someone could point out something I have missed. When its cold and the engine is cold the car will only fire up and idle, very slowly, only if i keep the key on. when it does idle it is very slow, almost stalls, after a while it starts to rise in increments, its as if the ecu is changing the injector duration and eventually it gets to normal idle speed. When the car is warm or the weather is warm these symptoms are not there. The car starts on the fifth crank and idles fine. I have fitted a new rotor arm and dizzy cap, the ht leads are oem and about 1 year old, along with the spark plugs, i bought a new CTS and compared the readings from mine and mine is ok, I have compared my idle valve to another idle valve and you can see it open when you crank the engine, mine behaves in the same manor and to rule mine out I have left the other one in place, the engine does the exact same thing even if the idle valve is not connected by the way. The throttle bodies have recently been balanced and the emissions were checked and set via the idle mixture screw. I am running with no lambda correction, so its not the lambda sensor. The throttle position switch is set correctly. The idle speed doesn't change when pressing on rubber tubing from the plenum chamber to the AFM, so its not an air leek, or at least not there and have checked all the clamps are tight. I have cleaned out the oil vapour capture in the oil filler neck. I have compared the air temp sensor with my spare AFM. I have tried another coil, I have reset the ecu and am about to fit a blink code tester. ECU? Vapour recirculation? I'm stumped, any ideas? thanks Alan[/quote]
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Topic review
Author
Message
BigAl
Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 4:32 pm
Post subject:
I just adjusted the throttle stop screws to 1/4 turnout "10 tho" from turn out and the problem is back, so i know what causes that.
BigAl
Posted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 1:38 pm
Post subject:
It's ok again???
Admin
Posted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 11:28 am
Post subject:
Hi
Only takes a tiny amount of petrol to make a very noticeable smell. However I would expect most leaks on a high pressure system to let out quite a bit of fuel.
All the best
Keith
BigAl
Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 11:20 am
Post subject:
I have not had the smell until i adjusted the idle mixture screw, along with the proper alfa tool to test emissions before the cat.
Why would adjusting the idle mixture screw cause the fuel smell?
BigAl
Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 1:49 am
Post subject:
Well i did have a look and saw nothing. I'm not smelling fuel anymore but still getting bad mpg so i will adjust my fuel mixture screw until my lambda probe reads roughly .45 volts, until i borrow the proper tool to stick in the pre emission hole whists on a gas analyser.
BigAl
Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 11:03 am
Post subject:
Thanks Lee,
I will have a look tomorrow, i still have my T/Y piece plumbed in from when i did my fuel pressure test, i checked there first thing
I can really smell the fuel when i start up from cold and when i gave it the beans last week, haven't done since just incase.
lee16v
Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 8:20 am
Post subject:
Al, Your leak is probably the small pipe between the fuel pressure damper thingy and the fuel rail. Had this one go a couple of times and you probably don't notice the leak so easily because of (a) it's position and (b) evaporation when the engine is hot.
BigAl
Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 6:01 pm
Post subject:
Rflower
Ive replaced everything bar the engine block
, I can confirm i have not had the problem since.
I have noticed a smell of fuel since but cant find a leak and worse fuel economy, i also set the mixture screw back to default 2.55v as i adjusted co down to 0.3 on idle instead of 0.5.
I have my fire extinguisher ready!!
RFlower
Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 4:15 am
Post subject:
http://www.alfa-pages.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=6215&highlight=
I always suspect connections first!
BigAl
Posted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 5:59 pm
Post subject:
I have sorted the problem!!!!!
If anyone else gets this problem, try the following
I used a 2.5mm ellenkey and 8mm spanner and adjusted the throttle stops from closed to 1 turn and adjusted the TPS afterwards obviously.
starts and goes to 900 rpm idle when cold in under 3 secs, damn fast lol.
Wahoooo.
BigAl
Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2009 9:02 am
Post subject:
keith, i have a sound file of it, can you host it as i dont think photobucket will?
BigAl
Posted: Fri May 22, 2009 12:53 am
Post subject:
oops, forgot to mention that, checked and changed the idle control valve, both worked ok.
Admin
Posted: Thu May 21, 2009 10:15 pm
Post subject:
Hi
One thing you haven't changed it seems is the idle control valve.
All the best
Keith
Oggie
Posted: Thu May 21, 2009 8:35 pm
Post subject:
Perhaps an old fashioned choke cable linked to the accelerator pedal/cable?.
BigAl
Posted: Thu May 21, 2009 7:05 pm
Post subject:
Hey Keith,
The thing is that the idle is so low it stalls unless you keep the key on and then it ticks over so slowly you think it will stall, then increases in increments slowly for up to 2 mins to 900rpm when the weather is really cold. There is no fast tick over which I would expect and prefer. I which there was a way to get it to tick over at just over 1.5k so that the alternator would kick in and then quickly drop to 900 rmp, like in new cars.
Admin
Posted: Thu May 21, 2009 5:23 pm
Post subject:
Hi
Suspect the main wear would be on the spindles / bearings for the butterfly valves, and this would like cause an air leak and a high idle (with a weak mixture).
All the best
Keith
BigAl
Posted: Wed May 20, 2009 8:26 pm
Post subject:
It has been suggested that it could be wear on the butterfly stops levers and that adjusting the screws to compensate could help.
The car has done 60k odd miles, I service and look after her very well, I have replaced the following;
Oil and filter
All HT leads with OEM ones
Rotor arm
Dizzy
Fuel filter
Plugs Platinum
SS exhaust from cat back and new proper gaskets for cat car.
K&N air filter
Cleaned oil air recirculation thingy
Different ECU
Different AFM
Different Coil
Checked CTS
Checked rotor timing
Checked cam timing
BigAl
Posted: Sat May 16, 2009 4:33 pm
Post subject:
I have changed the title back, lol
The car does it when cold, not just freezing cold.
Any ideas? I have to keep the key on.
The starter motor turns over fast enough but the engine ticks over so slowly and then slowly goes up to proper idle speed.
lee16v
Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 5:21 pm
Post subject:
Try moving Al, South of France off the top of my head!
BigAl
Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 8:29 am
Post subject:
i have changed the title of this post as i wasn't sure if everyone knew that i was only having problems when the weather is freezing cold.
As it has been warmer, but still cold, but not freezing cold, my car starts as it should now, so i cant do any testing. I need it to be freezing cold.
BigAl
Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2009 9:38 pm
Post subject:
lol
Oggie
Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2009 9:37 pm
Post subject:
Sorry Al , i have no mic yet to accept skype calls, my laptop is abit.....dated oh and slow.
BigAl
Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2009 9:30 pm
Post subject:
Hi Iain, yup, car starts fine when warm
Quote:
When the car is warm or the weather is warm these symptoms are not there. The car starts on the fifth crank and idles fine.
Quote:
Another (unrelated) thing I recently noticed was if you leave the vents open on your car its less likely to get condensation on the windows when the cars been sat for a while.
That is a good idea, i cant do it incase it gets windy, as it will set off my alarm
I am thinking that maybe something in the fuel pressure dept is doing what you say, getting tight and not working as it should, like maybe the diafram in the fuel pressure regulator. Maybe needs replacing as i'm sure when new and tested in all weather conditions it worked fine.
I just need someone to confirm/disprove this by explaining how it all works.
Oggie
Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2009 8:33 pm
Post subject:
I think at this time of year with the cars exposed to the elements , things start to tighten up and reduce in size causing higher compression when trying to start up. Al does your car start up better when warmed up?. Another (unrelated) thing I recently noticed was if you leave the vents open on your car its less likely to get condensation on the windows when the cars been sat for a while.
BigAl
Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2009 8:05 pm
Post subject:
Hey Iain,
yer i worry, worry it wont start
I wonder how many other people get the same thing and just put up with it?
Aren't injection cars are supposed to start on the button every time, if not there is a problem.
Is it wiring though, could wiring cause this or could it be a faulty component?
Can someone explain the fuel pressure regulation system, i was under the impression that it holds the pressure above atmospheric by a set amount.
Could it be that when its cold and there is more air pressure, it struggles to keep the pressure constant, or the constant isn't enough so the ecu ups the duration?